The Seri Indians live where waves of the Sea of Cortez tease the arid shores of the Sonoran Desert in Northwestern Mexico. Calling themselves “Comca’ac”, meaning “The People”, this ancient tribe has lived a semi-nomadic life ~ fishing, hunting, gathering and thriving ~ for approx. 2000 years in this harsh and seemingly unforgiving environment.
The Seri Territory is rich with endemic species, craggy volcanic islands, huge Sagueso (Cardón) cacti, lush estuaries, fresh water springs, huge colonies of migrating birds, mesmerizing beaches and a sea of unequaled diversity and productivity.
The heart of their territory is Isla Tiburon (shark island), the largest in the Midriff Archipelago, and called Taheöjc by the Comca’ac. This beautiful island is known to be the cosmic origin of their peoples and the soul of their ancient culture. Hallowed further, by their ancestors’ bloodshed.
The Seri have endured tremendous hardship and survived many attempts of extermination by neighboring ranchers and the Mexican government. Over a century ago, when their numbers hit an all time low of 70, they gathered their fragmented families together and hid from outsiders on their beloved Taheöjc, saving their culture from extinction.
Today, there are apparently 200 - 600 Seri remaining; living in two designated villages. They make a living by fishing and selling “tourist art”; baskets - whose fibers are prepared solely by using their top front teeth, delicate shell, bone and bead necklaces - who’s variety of shells are painstakingly gathered at isolated beaches; and hand carved figures made from wood and stone. Eco-tourism is on the rise, an appears to be a viable future for the Seri youth, and a great way to monitor and protect their territory as well as their culture.
The Comca’ac believe the mountains are their bones ~~ the soil their skin ~~ the streams their flowing blood ~~ and the air they breath, the giver of life. Even the rocks breathe. The fish, the birds, the wind, the ocean and the Comca’ac, all equally encompass nature. If they loose their connection with their environment, their culture will die.
But even with these kudos, the Seri fisherman can go out for days and not catch a single fish. They are burning a lot of gas and going farther and farther from home in the process. No fish equals no food and no money.
The bounty of the Sea of Cortez has been pillaged by uncontrolled, unregulated and illegal fishing practices. The “catch as much as you can as fast as you can” mentality of Mexican fisherman and Shrimpers (trawlers), coupled with insatiable international markets, has left this amazing fishery completely depleted. Continuing the torment, the ecologically devastating “Sea of Cortez Project” or “Nautical Stairway” continues to threaten these endangered peoples and their beautiful Desert and Sea.
For a great website on the Seri go to this link:
For a link to the Monterrey Bay Aquarium sustainable seafood info:
http://www.mbayaq.org/cr/seafoodwatch.asp
For a decent article on the “Sea of Cortez Project”:
http://www.cdnn.info/travel/t040116/t040116.html
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I began photographing the Seri Indians of Sonora, Mexico in the eighties as an undergrad with Prescott College. The moment I stepped onto the sandy streets of Punta Chueca, the Seri magic took over, and I knew I must return.
For the next decade I visited their villages one or two times a year, staying for a month or two at a time. In exchange for photo ops, I drove the women around the desert to harvest goodies; and sometimes sold baskets and necklaces for them stateside during film runs.
This summer, after an 11-year hiatus, I was finally able to revisit Seriland. After a fantastic reunion, I found myself crossing the border with some rare souvenirs: two Seri women -- 75-year-old Angelita and her 23-year-old niece, Otilia -- bound for Mariposa, CA.
Tables turned, it was my turn to cook and do their laundry. But I didn’t have to gather the wood or the water. They toured Yosemite National Park and the giant sequoias, and giggled about being tourists. They also sold every basket and necklace they brought with them. They saw fellow basket makers and traditional dancers at a Miwok celebration in Yosemite and even visited the Monterrey Bay Aquarium.
They shared their culture with the kids at Woodland Elementary with a slideshow of my photography, native songs and a table-full of wonderful art. Mostly though, Angelita wanted to watch novellas on the flat screen TV and Otilia was glued to wireless Instant Messenger.
Packed to the gills with generous donations of beads, fabric, clothing, food and cooking supplies from the many wonderful & compassionate artists/women from Sierra Art Trails; we safely made the two-day drive back to the village for the most important party of the year, the Seri New Year. This time, crossing the border with my nine-year-old daughter in tow.
The fiesta is traditionally held on the full moon when pitaya fruit from the giant Sagueso (Cardón) cactus bursts open and during the absolute hottest part of summer. This year, the very auspicious clouds arrived just after the moon rose, signifying the monsoons would soon arrive and a year of good luck was on its way.
Trying to fulfill some of this luck, Otilia and her friend Magdalena will be visiting Mariposa again in October 2007. They are making the special journey specifically to represent their community and sell their museum quality baskets, ironwood figures, delicate shell necklaces, hand sewn dolls and traditional clothing, as well as books and CD’s of traditional songs.
Few people have the chance to know the Seri, as they prefer to be “left alone” and isolated; and their villages are difficult to get to. They continue to live an extremely impoverished life and rarely get this kind of opportunity.
If you are interested in helping their community and investing in some authentically handmade art, created by this ancient tribe of seafaring hunter-gathers, offered at village prices, please contact me at my email at info@margotwholey.com or call 209-966-2061 to arrange an appointment.
