El Capitan in Yosemite National Park
Sierra Sun Times file photo
May 22, 2024 - From November 17, 2023, to January 30, 2024, the National Park Service (NPS) requested feedback from members of the public about the proposed guidance that would help NPS wilderness and climbing managers make informed decisions regarding the placement and/or replacement of permanent bolts, chains, or other climbing equipment used in NPS wilderness areas. We have received over 12,000 comments from interested members of the public. Those comments are available here:
NPS staff are still reviewing all public feedback on the proposed guidance and will consider suggested changes. NPS will then prepare and issue the final guidance, which will be made available online.
This proposed guidance does not ban climbing or the use of fixed anchors in wilderness areas. Under the proposed guidance, existing fixed anchors may continue to be used. This proposed guidance clarifies existing policy and will ensure consistency and clarity for visitors looking to climb in NPS-managed wilderness areas. When practicable and as funding and resources allow, parks will need to evaluate all routes with existing fixed anchors, through either a park, area, or route specific minimum requirements analysis (MRA). Where an MRA has not been completed, the proposed guidance provides for emergency replacement of a fixed anchor when health or safety are at risk in a manner that allows the climber to exit the route in the most expeditious manner.
The MRA process has long been used by NPS to evaluate proposed installations in wilderness like trail signs, trail bridges, pit toilets, campground markers and similar installations. So, the NPS has a lot of experience with using the MRA process to efficiently and effectively evaluate this category of uses while still providing for recreational and other opportunities.
Source: NPS
